Bakuchiol vs Retinol: Which Should You Use?
Retinol has the deeper research behind it. Bakuchiol is usually the gentler option. In the one head-to-head trial we have, both reduced wrinkles and pigmentation to a similar degree over 12 weeks, and the retinol group reported more scaling and stinging. The best choice for you depends on how much evidence you want, how your skin tolerates actives, and whether you are pregnant or breastfeeding.
Below, we compare the two on what matters: results, irritation, safety, how to use each, and how to read a bakuchiol label.
TL;DR
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Retinol is the better-studied anti-aging active. A 2024 systematic review gave it a Grade A recommendation and bakuchiol Grade C. That reflects a thinner evidence base, not proof that bakuchiol fails.
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In a 44-person, 12-week trial, bakuchiol matched retinol on fine lines and dark spots with less stinging and scaling.
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Bakuchiol is a sensible first step if your skin is sensitive or you have quit retinol because of peeling.
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The American Academy of Dermatology says to avoid retinol during pregnancy and breastfeeding. Bakuchiol is not proven safe in pregnancy either, so ask your clinician.
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Whichever you choose, add one active at a time, moisturize, and wear SPF 30 or higher daily.
Table of Contents
What bakuchiol and retinol actually are
Retinol is a form of vitamin A. It belongs to the retinoid family, which has been studied since the 1980s in trials with hundreds of participants. Your skin converts it to retinoic acid, which speeds up cell turnover and supports collagen. That is why it works, and also why it can leave skin dry, red or peeling at the start.
Bakuchiol is a plant compound from the seeds and leaves of the babchi plant (Psoralea corylifolia). It is not a retinoid. Researchers describe it as a functional analogue of retinoids: it appears to influence some of the same skin pathways without being vitamin A.
A word on “natural versus synthetic.” It is a common way to frame this choice, but it is not the useful distinction. Plant-derived does not automatically mean safer, and lab-made does not mean harsher. What separates the two in practice is evidence depth and tolerability.
Bakuchiol vs retinol at a glance
| Retinol | Bakuchiol | |
|---|---|---|
| Origin | Vitamin A derivative | Plant compound (babchi) |
| Evidence base | Extensive, decades of trials | Growing, but smaller and less uniform |
| 2024 review grade | Grade A | Grade C |
| Typical side effects | Dryness, stinging, peeling, sun sensitivity | Generally milder, with less expected peeling and stinging |
| Speed of visible change | Often described as faster | Gradual |
| Pregnancy and breastfeeding | Avoid, per the AAD | Not established as safe; ask your clinician |
| Best for | Maximizing evidence for photoaging when you tolerate it | Sensitive skin, comfort, a gentler start |
What the head-to-head trial found
The study most articles cite is a randomized, double-blind trial in the British Journal of Dermatology. It enrolled 44 people. One group applied 0.5% bakuchiol cream twice daily. The other applied 0.5% retinol cream once daily. Skin was assessed at weeks 0, 4, 8 and 12.
Both groups saw a significant reduction in wrinkle surface area and hyperpigmentation, and the difference between them was not statistically significant. Retinol users reported more scaling and stinging.
That is encouraging, and it deserves honest framing:
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It is one small trial. Forty-four people over 12 weeks cannot tell you how bakuchiol performs over years or across all skin types.
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The dosing differed. Bakuchiol was used twice a day and retinol once, so the comparison is about regimens, not equal amounts.
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It tested cosmetic outcomes. It does not tell us how bakuchiol compares with prescription retinoids used for more serious concerns. Dr. Shilpi Khetarpal of Cleveland Clinic makes the same point: further research is needed there.
Why retinol still wins on evidence
A 2024 systematic review of anti-aging cosmeceuticals screened 153 articles and included 32 clinical studies with 1,236 patients. Retinol earned a Grade A recommendation. Bakuchiol earned Grade C.
A second review focused on bakuchiol found a similar picture. Of the 15 bakuchiol trials it assessed, many were open-label without controls, many used combination products, and some did not state the concentration. An earlier 2022 review found 30 relevant articles but only seven clinical studies. It points to possible benefits for photoaging, acne and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, while describing the evidence as heterogeneous.
In plain terms: bakuchiol looks promising, and retinol is proven. If your top priority is the most reliable result for photoaging and your skin handles it, retinol is the safer bet on evidence. If irritation makes you quit, the better-studied active does you no good. Harvard Health’s reading is similar: bakuchiol may suit people with sensitive skin or a preference for plant-derived ingredients, while retinoids remain better supported for those who can tolerate possible dryness, burning, peeling and sun sensitivity.
Which one suits your skin
Choose bakuchiol if
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Your skin stings easily, or you have tried retinol and stopped because of redness and flaking.
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You want a night-time step that feels comfortable, not a visible adjustment period.
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You prefer plant-derived ingredients and accept a slower, more modest timeline.
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You are building a barrier-first routine. Our guide to Korean skincare for sensitive skin covers the ceramide and centella base that helps either active work better.
Choose retinol if
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Your main goal is firming, fine lines and sun damage, and you want the active with the most research behind it.
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Your skin is resilient, or you are willing to build up slowly.
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You are not pregnant, breastfeeding or trying to conceive, and your clinician has no objection.
If you want retinol but it is too much, you can still reduce irritation with the retinol sandwich method, which buffers the active between layers of moisturizer.
When to see a dermatologist first
See a board-certified dermatologist before choosing either one if you have active rosacea, perioral dermatitis, eczema flares, or persistent cystic acne. Over-the-counter bakuchiol and retinol are cosmetic products, and these conditions often need medical guidance. If your skin is already inflamed, our barrier repair routine for perioral dermatitis and our gentle routine for rosacea are helpful reading, but they do not replace a diagnosis.
Pregnancy and breastfeeding
This is where the “plant-based” label can mislead. The American Academy of Dermatology advises that you avoid retinoids, including over-the-counter retinol, while pregnant, and recommends discussing your skincare ingredients with your obstetrician and dermatologist.
Bakuchiol is often suggested as the swap. But clinical pregnancy data are limited, so it should not be presented as proven safe. If you are pregnant, breastfeeding or planning a pregnancy, ask your obstetrician or dermatologist to review the exact product before you switch.
Can you use them together?
Some brands combine the two, and one retailer’s guide reports that bakuchiol may stabilize retinol and ease its irritation potential in combination. We would treat that as an interesting area, not a guarantee. The 2024 bakuchiol review notes that improvements seen in formulas pairing bakuchiol with other actives cannot be confidently credited to bakuchiol alone.
If you want to layer both, start with one. Use it for several weeks. Add the second only if your skin is calm. A simple pattern many people find workable is retinol on some nights and bakuchiol on others, but there is no trial-proven schedule, so go by how your skin responds.
If vitamin C is also on your list, see our guide on using retinol and vitamin C together safely.
How to start either one
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Cleanse and dry. Apply to clean, dry skin. The AAD notes that waiting 30 minutes after washing before applying retinol may reduce irritation for some people.
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Use a small amount. A pea-sized amount covers the face. More does not work faster.
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Begin a few nights a week. Increase only when your skin feels comfortable, not tight or hot.
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Moisturize afterward. A ceramide or glycerin-rich cream keeps the barrier cushioned. Our moisturizers collection is a good place to browse.
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Wear sunscreen every morning. Use broad-spectrum, water-resistant SPF 30 or higher. Retinol raises sun sensitivity, and daily SPF is what protects any anti-aging gains.
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Change one thing at a time. If irritation appears, you will know which step caused it.
If you want a framework for pacing, our 4-week skip-care routine is designed to protect the barrier while you introduce new products, and the daily Korean skincare routine shows where a night treatment sits.
How to read a bakuchiol label
Bakuchiol is not a standardized active, and you cannot assume that one percent bakuchiol equals one percent retinol. Study designs, doses and formulas vary too much for a reliable conversion.
When you shop:
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Check the full ingredient list. If a formula also contains peptides, vitamin C derivatives or other actives, the results come from the whole product.
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Look at the texture and base. Soothing, hydrating ingredients matter as much as the active if your skin is easily upset.
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Be wary of percentage-only comparisons. A higher number is not automatically better.
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Patch test. Try a small area for a few days first, especially if your skin reacts to fragrance or botanicals.
Bakuchiol in Korean skincare
Korean brands have developed bakuchiol products that pair the ingredient with hydrating, barrier-supporting bases, in keeping with a routine philosophy built around comfort and consistency. We would not claim that “Koreans use bakuchiol instead of retinol” as a rule. Popular retinol and retinal products are sold in Korea as well. What you will find is a number of bakuchiol serums, night creams and body products designed to feel light and cushioned.
Our perspective at Le Panda Beauté
We talk with many first-time K-beauty shoppers, and the same question comes up: should I start with retinol because it is the proven one? Our honest answer is that the best active is the one you can use consistently. A retinol that leaves you flaky for two months, followed by a drawer full of abandoned tubes, helps no one.
For most newcomers, we like starting with the barrier: a gentle cleanser, a good moisturizer and daily sun protection. Once those are steady, a night treatment becomes much easier to judge. If your skin is on the reactive side, bakuchiol is a calm place to begin. If you later want to step up, retinol will still be there, and your skin will be better prepared for it.
We also encourage realistic expectations. Neither ingredient is a shortcut. Expect gradual changes in texture and tone over months, not days, and treat any product that promises overnight transformation with caution.
— Sophie Wong
Bakuchiol options at Le Panda Beauté
If you would like to try bakuchiol, we carry three bakuchiol products from By Wishtrend, all shipped directly from South Korea:
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Vitamin A-mazing Bakuchiol Night Cream 30g, a night-time moisturizing step.
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Pore Smoothing Bakuchiol Serum 30ml, a lightweight serum for texture and pores.
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Vitamin A-mazing Bakuchiol Body Lotion 150g, for areas beyond the face.
You can also browse our treatments and sun protection collections to round out your routine. As with any new active, check the full ingredient list and patch test first.
FAQ
Is bakuchiol as good as retinol?
In one 12-week randomized trial, bakuchiol and retinol performed comparably on wrinkles and pigmentation. However, retinol has far more research behind it, which is why it holds the higher evidence grade. Bakuchiol is a reasonable option, particularly if irritation is your main concern.
What should you not mix bakuchiol with?
There is no firm rule from large trials, so go by your skin. Avoid starting bakuchiol at the same time as other new actives, such as strong exfoliating acids or retinol, because you will not know what caused any irritation. Introduce one product at a time and moisturize.
Is bakuchiol safe during pregnancy?
It is not established as safe. The AAD advises avoiding retinol in pregnancy and breastfeeding, and clinical pregnancy data on bakuchiol are limited. Ask your obstetrician or dermatologist before using it.
Does bakuchiol work as fast as retinol?
Probably not. Bakuchiol results are usually described as gradual, while retinol is often associated with quicker visible change, though it can come with more irritation. In the 12-week trial, both reached similar results by the end, so patience matters.
Do I still need sunscreen with bakuchiol?
Yes. Daily broad-spectrum SPF 30 or higher is the foundation of any anti-aging routine, whichever active you choose, and it protects the skin you are working to improve.
Sources
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Bakuchiol and retinol randomized trial, British Journal of Dermatology (PubMed)
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Human clinical trials using topical bakuchiol: a systematic review (PubMed)
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Applications of bakuchiol in dermatology: systematic review (Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology)
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Bakuchiol: Retinol Alternative for Sensitive Skin (Cleveland Clinic)
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Dermatologist-approved pregnancy skin care (American Academy of Dermatology)
