Licorice Root Skincare: 3 K Beauty Picks Backed by Research
Licorice root extract is one of the gentler ways to fade dark spots and calm irritated skin, backed by tyrosinase-inhibiting compounds that research and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review have both examined. It works best for sensitive, post-breakout, or aging skin that cannot tolerate harsher brighteners. Paired with daily SPF and used consistently, it rewards patience rather than overnight drama, and there are several Korean formulations built around it.
TL;DR:
Licorice root extract contains compounds that slow melanin production and disperse existing pigmentation, aiding in gradually fading dark spots.
Its anti-inflammatory properties can reduce redness, irritation, and flare-ups, making it suitable for sensitive and reactive skin types.
Topical use is generally safe with minimal systemic absorption, but patch testing and caution during pregnancy are recommended.
Formulations with higher concentrations, like serums and ampoules, deliver more active ingredients for targeted brightening, while soothing pads are ideal for sensitive skin.
Consistent application combined with daily sun protection over six to twelve weeks yields noticeable improvements in skin tone and tone evenness.
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How Licorice Root Works in Skincare
The brightening reputation licorice root has earned comes down to a small set of plant compounds working through different pathways at once. Liquiritin and glabridin are the two actives most skincare chemists point to, while licochalcone A handles much of the calming work.
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Liquiritin disperses existing melanin, helping fade spots that have already formed rather than just preventing new ones.
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Glabridin inhibits tyrosinase, the enzyme responsible for new pigment production, so it works more on prevention than correction.
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Licochalcone A calms inflammation and redness, which matters because inflamed skin tends to overproduce pigment in response.
Together, these compounds support both ends of the pigmentation problem: they slow new melanin formation and help clear out what’s already visible. The same antioxidant activity that protects skin from environmental stress also supports a healthier, more resilient barrier over time, which is part of why licorice shows up in so many soothing and brightening formulas at once rather than being marketed for just one job.
Proven Benefits: Brightening, Calming, and Protecting Skin
Laboratory and clinical research back up most of what licorice root claims to do, though the evidence is strongest for specific, well-defined uses rather than broad promises.
A double-blind clinical trial found that a 2% topical licorice gel measurably reduced erythema and itching in atopic dermatitis over two weeks, which is a concrete marker of its anti-inflammatory effect at a defined concentration.
For pigmentation specifically, licorice root extract has shown tyrosinase inhibition and melanin reduction in lab testing, which translates clinically into real, if gradual, help for:
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Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH) left behind by acne or minor injuries.
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A tendency toward melasma, where consistent, gentle use may reduce recurrence.
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Redness and visible irritation, since the anti-inflammatory action works alongside the brightening one.
Antioxidant protection and mild anti-aging support round out the profile. Dermatology-facing coverage describes licorice as capable of delivering gradual brightening comparable to stronger agents, but with fewer side effects when used consistently, which is the trade-off worth understanding before you buy.
Safety and Side Effects: Who Should Patch-Test or Avoid Licorice
Licorice root has a strong safety record for topical use. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review concluded that licorice-derived ingredients are safe for cosmetic use, noting that dermal penetration is low, which limits systemic exposure compared to oral intake.
Sensitization is rare but not impossible, especially in people with broader botanical sensitivities. Before adding a new licorice product to your routine:
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Apply a pea-sized amount behind your ear or on your inner forearm.
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Cover the area and wait 24 to 48 hours, watching for redness, itching, or scaling.
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Stop immediately if any reaction appears, and avoid introducing other new actives during the test window.
Pregnant readers, or anyone using a high-concentration formula, should check with a clinician first given licorice’s estrogenic components. It generally layers well with niacinamide and vitamin C; introduce it more cautiously alongside retinoids or hydroquinone, since combining multiple active ingredients can increase the odds of irritation.
Pro Tip: Start licorice-containing products every other night for the first two weeks, then build up to daily use once your skin confirms it’s comfortable.
How to Use Licorice-Containing Products for Best Results
Format matters almost as much as the ingredient itself. Serums and ampoules deliver the most concentrated brightening dose, pads offer quick, low-commitment soothing, and creams work well for ongoing maintenance once you’ve seen initial improvement.
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Cleanse first, then apply any treatment or essence before your licorice serum or ampoule.
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Use your licorice product once or twice daily as directed, following dermatologist-recommended frequency rather than overusing it for faster results.
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Follow with a moisturizer suited to your skin type to lock in the actives and support your barrier, a step covered in more detail in our daily Korean skincare routine guide.
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Apply sunscreen every morning without exception, since new UV exposure can undo weeks of brightening progress.
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Give it six to twelve weeks before judging results, and see a dermatologist if pigment issues persist beyond that window or seem to be worsening.
For readers already using a vitamin C step, our morning vitamin C routine explains how to sequence the two without canceling each other out.
What to Look for in a Licorice Product
Reading the ingredient list tells you more than the marketing copy. Look for Glycyrrhiza glabra or Glycyrrhiza inflata extract listed reasonably high in the INCI, and where brands disclose it, standardized glabridin or liquiritin content tends to perform more reliably than vague “licorice extract” blends.
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Serums and ampoules suit targeted brightening goals best, since they carry the highest active concentration.
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Pads and lower-concentration formulas work well for sensitive or reactive skin that needs soothing without extra friction.
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Niacinamide, vitamin C, and ceramides pair naturally with licorice and often appear together in the same formula.
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Introduce retinoids or stronger exfoliants gradually once your skin has adjusted to the licorice step alone.
| Product | Best for | Typical formulation | How to use |
|---|---|---|---|
| SKINFOOD Licorice Soothing Pad 250g/60ea | Sensitivity and redness | Pre-soaked pad | Swipe once daily after cleansing |
| SKINFOOD Yuja C Dark Spot Clear Serum 50ml | General brightening | Serum | Apply AM or PM, follow with SPF |
| LANEIGE Radian-C Vitamin Spot Ampoule 10ml | Stubborn, localized discoloration | Spot ampoule | Dab directly onto dark spots |
Our layering guide walks through exactly where to slot a licorice step if you’re already running a multi-step routine.
Why We Curate Licorice-Root Products
We built our licorice-focused lineup around the same question researchers keep coming back to: does it actually calm and brighten without irritating already-sensitive skin? The clinical and lab evidence behind glabridin and liquiritin gave us confidence it does, which is why licorice shows up across several of our soothing and brightening picks rather than in just one niche product.
Items typically ship directly from South Korea through trusted distributors, ensuring the formulas match their intended design. For readers building out a full routine around licorice, our layering guide is a useful next stop.
— Sophie Wong
Shop These Licorice-Powered Brightening and Soothing Picks
If you want to put the research into practice, these three formulations cover the main ways licorice root shows up in a routine: soothing, daily brightening, and targeted spot correction.
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SKINFOOD Licorice Soothing Pad 250g/60ea: best for redness and quick, low-effort soothing after cleansing.
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SKINFOOD Yuja C Dark Spot Clear Serum 50ml: a brightening serum to wear morning or night, always finished with SPF.
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LANEIGE Radian-C Vitamin Spot Ampoule 10ml: a targeted ampoule for stubborn, localized discoloration.
Browse our full skin care collection to build a complete routine around whichever pick fits your skin.
FAQ
Is licorice root good for skin care?
Yes, licorice root extract is well supported for brightening dark spots and calming irritated or reactive skin. Its main actives, liquiritin and glabridin, work through tyrosinase inhibition and melanin dispersion, making it a gentler alternative to stronger brightening agents.
What are the side effects of licorice root for skin?
Topical licorice is considered safe for most people, with the Cosmetic Ingredient Review confirming low dermal penetration and minimal systemic exposure. Rare sensitization can occur, so a patch test is worth doing before regular use, and pregnant readers should check with a clinician first due to licorice’s estrogenic components.
How can I use licorice root on my skin?
Apply a licorice-containing serum, ampoule, or pad once or twice daily as commonly recommended, after cleansing and before moisturizer. Always follow with sunscreen in the morning, since new sun exposure can undo brightening progress, and expect visible improvement over weeks rather than days.
Is licorice root in skincare safe?
Yes, for most skin types. Regulatory safety reviews have concluded that licorice-derived cosmetic ingredients are safe for topical use, though anyone with broader botanical sensitivities should patch test first and persistent pigmentation concerns are worth raising with a dermatologist or med spa professional.
